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Leadership for Sustainability: Same difference?

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Sustainability in Leadership The world of sustainability in fashion has changed fundamentally in the last few years. Individuals have emerged that seem to drive the discussion, and pretty much define the agenda. Examples of such individuals are Puma’s (PPR, now Kering) Jochen Seitz, Patagonia’s Yvan Chouinard or Marks or Spencer’s Mike Barry, to just name three.

While there is plenty of room for critique on how they get stuff done and why, the reality is that they indeed have managed to move the industry in its hinges. They have forged the agenda of what’s going on globally so much – just think Higg Index, Tracability Systems and Environmental Profit & Loss Accounts – that I would like to spend some time digging around and looking at what qualities, not just skills, they have that helped them to get to where they are..

What qualities do leaders have?

Threshold vs. Performance Distinguishing Competencies

Threshold vs. Performance Distinguishing Leadership Competencies ((c) Coursera: 'Inspiring Leadership through Emotional Intelligence' by Richard Boyatzis)

One quality they have is, undoubtably, their knowledge of a certain domain: broad enough to maintain in depth conversation with a very broad set of specialists. Yet general enough not to get caught up in technicalities.

But, mostly it is their personality and style that helps them achieve what they want. According to research, there at least 3 ‘soft skill’ areas that are relevant for a successful leader, plus the above mentioned ‘hard skill’ area of knowledge (image right, click to see full size).

What we can see from that is that knowing oneself well, and opening up to input from others – at every level: in a team, in terms of knowledge, but also in terms of our personality and work styles – is a key component of what makes leaders good leaders. In other words: they keep learning, and they are not afraid of admiting to it.

But most importantly: not only do these people stand out as being recgonised by others as good leaders personalities, but they manage to translate that to outperform their peers also in what matters most for companies: ROI, bottom line benefit, staff turn over etc.

Vision, passion – and hard work

4 Dimensional Model of Sustainable Leadership

4 Dimensional Model of Sustainable Leadership ((c) http://computingforsustainability.com)

A different illustration of the same concepts is shown in the illustration on the right.

Leaders in fashion, sustainability, are not fundamentally different than other leaders.
What makes them do one, or ther other, or possibly both, i.e. combinging Fashion with Sustainability?

The main difference is their vision and passion, and the willingness to do more of all the above mentioned to reach across to people who have not understood the importance of the topic. Maybe it could be said that they are even more leader-like than leaders usually are anyway. And in all likelihood they’re a lot more hard working, and willing to sacrifise their personal benefit to reach closer to their goal.

In comparison to others, sustainability leaders, however, champion even 3 aspectspossibly even more carefully than usually:

Further attributes of a sustainability leader are summarised in this video: 'Skills for Effective Sustainability Leadership', a compilation by the Salzburg Global Seminar

  • Accountability or if you prefer ‘transparency‘: a willingness to sharing information, empower others and be accountable throughout for their acctivity. Authenticity comes as a result, as comes an attitude of ‘nothing to hide’.
  • Team work that extends beyond their own team, but reaches as far as stakeholders, or potentially even competitors.
  • Humility: A realisation that they themselves don’t matter in the larger scheme of things. And a willingness to support anyone who can achieve their vision better, quicker and with more effectively.

Why is this important

In a previous post, quite some time ago, about the Founder Syndrome, I have illustrated the issues that arise with talented, but very self-centric personalities. These are not ‘leaders’ in the concept of this article. These are founders, activists, enterpreneurs, possibly with a capacity for passion and work that is admirable. But they are not leaders – because in essence they are fighting on their own, and create problems once that their organisation needs its own life.

Leaders are those that excell at the soft skills involved in leading – an issue, a business. They have many of the characteristics that could potentially back fire, but they have learned(!) that there is more to it, and that it is the support of others that will carry them through to what they want, need to achieve.

When it comes to sustainability in fashion, this is in as far important, as that the industry is ravaged by Founders, but very few leaders. The three people mentioned at the beginning of the article are hence, the impersonalisation of a new breed of leader in the industry.
These leaders have not come from outside – like many of the Founders did and still do – but they are self-grown. They have made their way through the ranks recognised as leaders before sustainability was on their (official) agenda. and they done that thanks to all the many skills they have other than knowledge.

Leaders such as these, is what the industry needs most desperately at this very moment.


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